If you connected the DVD to your audio system using HDMI, and then used HDMI to connect the audio system to the HDTV, you are likely running into the most common “gotcha” when using HDMI connections. HDMI implements a copy protection protocol known as HDCP (High-Definition Copy Protection), which is designed to stop people from making unauthorized copies of digital content. The problem usually rests with the DVD player not implementing the HDCP repeater function properly. So the video doesn’t reach its destination. Try connecting the DVD directly to the HDTV using HDMI. If everything works - sound and video, you have just confirmed the aforementioned problem. Check with the vender of your DVD player to see if they have a firmware update for your DVD player to correct this issue.

If you are not using HDMI, then the problem may be a setup issue with the DVD player (Blu-ray, etc). Many components are shipped setup to only use a particular default connection and don’t automatically failover to other connections; check your owner’s manual. Also ensure that you are sending both video and audio to the desired locations. Many audio components lack the ability to receive an analog video feed and then forward the video via HDMI on to the HDTV.

The sending component (DVD, Set-Top-Box, etc,) may not be set to automatically use a connection other than their HDMI connection as the default; check the owner’s manual to see how to change the output connection. Another potential problem, particularly with Set-Top-Boxes, is that your cable or satellite vendor may have chosen not to enable the HDMI connection of the Set-Top-Box. The only solution to that is to use the connection type designated by your cable or satellite vendor. Finally, ensure that the receiving device has been changed to the correct input to receive the incoming HDMI signal.

By design, HDMI is an “intelligent” connection that uses two communications between end points. Many lower priced HTIB and AV Receiver sporting HDMI input and output connections, implement what is commonly called “pass –through” or “HDMI switching”. As the term “pass-through” implies, these devices pass-through the HDMI signal; essentially they are not seen as end-points by the HDMI communication. With the 2 way communication of HDMI, the receiving device tells the sending what its capabilities are, and the sending device sends the best audio and video that the receiving device can handle. Since your HDTV only has built-in 2 channel audio capabilities, (remember that your surround sound audio system is not part of the conversation, since it can only pass the signal through), the sending device “down-mixes” the audio signal to 2 channel audio.

To avoid this, the easiest solution is to only purchase surround sound systems that implement what is known as “HDMI repeater functionality”. This capability will cost you more to purchase, but the reward will be well worth it. Alternatively, you can use optical or digital coax connections to route sound from your devices to you audio system. However, there are two potential problems with this approach. Low cost HTIB and AV Receivers may not have sufficient optical and/or coax connections to handle all of your components. These devices also may not be configurable to receive audio from optical or coax connections, and video from HDMI connections, and then forward video from HDMI connections to your HDTV. As a result you may have to connect video directly to your HDTV and run the audio to sound system. You are then faced with the challenge of remembering what input to set the HDTV and sound system to see and hear your playback device as desired. You can mitigate this by utilising advanced multi-brand remotes, like Logitech’s line of Harmony remotes.

The second issue that you may run into is that your playback device doesn’t permit video output through an HDMI connection while the audio output is through an optical, digital coax or multi-channel audio connection. This gotcha can be resolved by using an analog video connection.

Your audio system may not be capable of receiving multi-channel LPCM over its HDMI input. Check the user manual of your playback device to see if it can output HDMI audio as bitstream. If it can, changing the setting to output bitstream audio will solve this problem.

Your DVD or Blu-ray player is automatically down-mixing the audio output to Dolby Digital to send the audio via optical or digital coax. Check your user’s manual to see if you can over ride this setting and force it to your desired surround sound format. Alternatively, if your DVD or Blu-ray Player can output bitstream via its Optical or digital Coax connection, set it to that. This will allow your audio system to decode the audio using your desired audio format.

There are a number of factors that can cause your picture not to look as good as what you saw in the store. First of all ensure that you are using the quality of content that was being used at the store. If the HDTV at the store was displaying HD content, but you are watching standard definition content on your HDTV at home, your HDTV picture is not going to look as good, because the resolution of the content is lower. All channels are not yet available in HD, and the amount of HD channels available varies greatly between providers. If you have access to HD content, ensure that you are watching the HD feed; most providers will have a standard definition and HD feed for the big networks ( ABC, CBS, ESPN, FOX, NBC, etc.) available on different channels.

With the exception of Dish Network`s 1080p Video-on-demand service, HD television content is broadcast at 720p and/or 1080i resolution. Up-scaling technology available in better AV receivers and stand-alone up-scaling devices can boost a 720p or 1080i signal to 1080p, resulting in a superior picture. The HDTV at the store may have had the incoming cable or satellite signal processed by one of these devices. You can do the same by adding a similar device to your system.

Another reason for the difference in picture quality may be that the HDTV in the store has been properly calibrated, and yours HDTV has not. If you search the internet you will find lots of tools (that work to varying degrees) that will try to help you to calibrate your TV, the best one is probably the “Digital Video Essentials”. If you follow the instruction and get lucky, you may get your desired results. For the best results, pick up the phone and call an expert to do it for you! Calibrating an HDTV is not hard, when you know how to do it, (anything is easy when you have the tools and the knowhow). If you watch sports, you have probably seen some athletes do some incredible things; it took them years of training to able to do that. If you don’t want to spend years trying to setup your HDTV picture, pick up the phone!

Finally, most consumers typically have a misplaced belief that all they need is lowest priced interconnecting cable and a $6 garden variety power bar and bob’s your uncle. All that HD equipment you just purchased is more computer than anything else. If you want to have erratic performance from a computer, just plug it in naked to a wall outlet, and leave it to get bombarded with over and under voltage, and tons of EMI that come from your utility company. If you are looking to get the best picture from HDTV, then plug it into something that is protecting it from EMI and over and under voltage.

The same applies to interconnecting cables. Are the top performing cables expensive? Yes, but so are Aston-Martins and Rolls-Royces. With HDMI cables, your safest route is to only buy cables that appear on the SimplayHD verified list. The SimplayHD program is conducted by Simplay Labs (a wholly owned subsidiary of Silicon Image, the inventors of HDMI), where HDMI components and cables are tested in real world situations. Certification of HDMI products are performed by the manufacturer of the products, which is the same as putting the fox in charge of the hen house. With the SimplayHD program at least you have third party assurance that the cables perform as claimed.